The classic Volkswagen Kombi: is it still a practical daily driver?

The air-cooled Volkswagen Kombi is a motorsport icon. It’s a classic van packed with character, and many young men (and girls) still aspire to own one as their daily driver. But are they getting a little long now to make a practical vehicle for everyday use?

I drive my 1976 2-litre hatchback every day, and my experience gives a good indication of what you need to do to make your unrestored Kombi as safe and comfortable to drive as your primary car.

Volkswagen Kombis are over 30 years old now and it shows. I’ve spent a lot of time and money in recent years getting mine back to reasonable condition, and if you buy a cheap Kombi you should be prepared to do the same. Even a more expensive Kombi will probably need some repairs and TLC.

The 1800cc 2-litre models are the most practical because they have more starting and running than models with smaller engines, although the engines cost more to rebuild.

Advantage first.

Kombis are cool, they’re iconic, they’ve got character, and they’re definitely not boring.

They are fun to drive and when in good shape they are comfortable and handle well with good steering. The late-model bay windows keep up with the traffic ticket and can cruise at 60 mph all day, though they slow down on larger hills.

And they are practical. There is a lot of space in a Kombi. Maybe not as good as a modern van because of the rear engine hump, but still a great caravan or 8 seater van with room for luggage or groceries. Ground clearance is good, and the engine over the rear wheels provides good traction for a two-wheel drive if you want to get off the beaten path a bit.

Now here’s what to keep in mind if you plan on having one of these as your daily driver.

Rust of course is the biggest killer of Kombis or any vintage car. You’re much better off spending a little more money and getting a reasonably rust-free Kombi. However, since you find a rust-free Kombi, there’s still a lot going on to eat your money up before it’s practical to use your truck on a daily basis.

The motor may be worn. I rebuilt mine a couple of years ago with new barrels and pistons, all new bearings, rebuilt crankshaft and camshaft, and rebuilt heads. The heads were converted for use with unleaded gasoline at the same time. All this costs money.

Steering and suspension are safety related and must be correct.

On the suspension, I replaced the four main ball joints and the shocks. With the steering, I have replaced all the tie rod ends and the main center pin. The steering damper is next on the replacement list, and that should see the correct steering for my Kombi. It’s always possible that yours might need a new steering box, too.

The brakes of your Kombi also need to be correct. The brake linings are something that needs regular replacement, but I also replaced the rear brake drums because they were worn beyond limits, and the front discs will need to be replaced the next time the front brake pads run out.

I replaced all the flex brake hoses because they are now over thirty years old and get brittle and I replaced some of the metal brake lines because they were corroded. The rear brake cylinders were replaced a few years ago and the front brake calipers were rebuilt with new seals.

There are four CV joints in the rear drive train, and the ones in my bay window were very sad. They were replaced along with the rear wheel bearings.

One very important area to consider is the engine fuel lines. The kombis burn, and it is caused by the gasoline that splashes all over the engine. Check the fuel lines carefully and if they look old and cracked, replace them with a quality fuel line. Make sure they don’t rub against the tin and that the lines to the carburetor and fuel pump aren’t loose. This is important!

In addition to the things that you know may need fixing, there is always something unexpected. A spray nozzle came loose from the carb on my bay window and went through the engine. It’s just a thin little brass tube, but it sounded like there were marbles rattling off the engine. Luckily there was no damage, but that meant taking the engine out and removing the cylinder heads to go over everything and remove debris from the spray nozzle. And just this week I had to change the alternator.

In addition to mechanical wear, you have to think about cosmetics. Your cheap Kombi may need a paint job, new carpets, new upholstery, and even the front seats may need attention.

On the comfort side, new door and window seals may be needed to stop rattling and drafts. The heater may need some attention. On my Kombi, the heater wires were seized. That didn’t worry me until I moved from a hot part of the country to a much colder area where temperatures drop below freezing in the winter.

In most of the side parts they are readily available. For my Kombi, a 1976 2-litre model, I was able to buy all the parts I needed except the carburetor spray nozzles, and even then I was able to get by with parts from a different VW model.

My opinion is that despite all the repairs and restorations, Volkswagen Kombis can still be a practical daily driver. You have to accept the fact that the purchase price is only part of the story, and that you will have to spend time and money to get your Classic Kombi back to safe and comfortable condition.